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Friday 20 April 2012

Cut Monthly Bills by Up to 50% by Installing vigor efficient duplicate Paned Windows

One of the least expensive remodeling projects which homeowners may undertake is the transfer of all of the windows and surface doors.  While it may not be as profitable as a full kitchen remodel or bathroom remodel with regards to resale value, it can add character to a home and save major expenses every month on heating and cooling the home.  Coupled with upgrading accent pieces such as surface lighting fixtures or dormers, a homeowner can radically change the appearance of a home.

The ready window and door materials and hardware on the store are truly amazing.  Every type has its own strengths and possibilities.  For the most part, any newly manufactured window and door will supply great insulation properties over the existing fixtures of a house as minuscule as 10 - 15 years old.  Rapid advancements in building materials and techniques allow this possibility.

Replacement Kitchen Doors

Double paned glass windows have seen improvements in the past 20 years.  Having a space of whether oxygen or argon gas in in the middle of two panes of glass increases the insulated properties of windows over just having a particular pane of glass.  Depending upon the region of the country, certain frame materials also can lead to providing great insulation from colder temperature.  

Common framing materials used are vinyl, aluminum, wood, or fiberglass.  Because of the building and corporal properties of these materials, all but aluminum is best in colder northern climates.  Where the atmosphere in the south reaches higher temperature, aluminum is a good alternative for window framing.

Another major advantage of duplicate paned windows is improved noise allowance from the surface environment.  This may not be a factor though unless living in a suburban area or a downtown city where noise from the hustle and bustle of traffic is common.

While the preliminary cost of the windows may be higher than anticipated, the mean homeowner can realistically expect monthly savings of the power utility bills to be reduced by as much as 50% percent.  This monthly savings will wholly offset the cost of the windows within a short time.  If resale of the home is a possibility in the next few years, the efficiency of duplicate paned windows will also serve as an moving selling feature of the home.

Cut Monthly Bills by Up to 50% by Installing vigor efficient duplicate Paned Windows

Thursday 12 April 2012

beginning a Coffee Shop - tool Needs

So you have decided on starting a coffee shop! Congratulations! In my coffee shop business plan package, I go into more detail concerning equipment but due to space here, I am only going to give you some basic ideas of what to reconsider when seeing at your equipment needs.

First of all, do yourself a favor and Do Not buy any used equipment unless you know the exact age, where it came from, who used it, and that maintenance records are verifiable. I am only referring to anyone with a motor or compressor. Used sinks, tables, counters, etc are fine as long as they are in decent shape. All other equipment, be Very careful!

Replacement Kitchen Doors

Even if you get it from a friend, you might be assured by them that the equipment was maintained properly and often, any way did they get it used and can they get that guarantee from whom they bought it from? And how old for real is it?

As you may have guessed, I fell into this trap and had things breaking down when I did not expect it shortly after I opened my coffee shop. Yes even my espresso machine. I was in a bad spot then! Luckily I had passage to a one group engine for backup and a local guy was able to fix the other fast but you may not be as lucky.

I ultimately upgraded to mostly new equipment when, but this can be avoided by getting new equipment at the start. You will be glad you did it, trust me!

Equipment Needs

Cash register or Pos computer? - A computer Pos (point of sale) ideas is good there is no doubt about it. These are the ones that have the touch screen monitors and such. However, they are probably (and arguably) best for analyzing your sales and list only, and not much more. They do not speed up your customer line.

If you want one of these guys, be prepared to pay about 00 for a base system. The price goes up for many terminals and printers, monitors, a kitchen printer, etc.

In my understanding though, a Pos fast food register that has price look ups (Plu) and branch categories is sufficient for most coffee shops. Try to get one that allows you to download the information to your computer. Most have this feature today. It may, any way increase your by hand list and sales tracking if you have to put this info into your accounting software and spreadsheets manually but it can be a big money saver. If you get in the habit of entering the figures daily, you will not have a huge number of data entry to do at month's end. You can normally get these types of registers for about 0 or so.

If you end up opportunity other stores, I think the touch screen computer Pos may be the way to go then because it will make your administration and list control much easier, and you can link all of your shop together and control them from one place.

Espresso Machine

This is the Mack daddy of the whole business, your life blood. Do Not Skimp On It! However, having said that there is the line of overkill you do not need to cross either. I say, two group maximum, if you need more power or want a backup, get a one group as well.

The feasibility of a three or four group is great but it's difficult to get more than one someone working on them due to spacing of the group heads, etc. Ordinarily, you do not need more than one someone pulling shots and manufacture the espresso beverages anyway. It is almost impossible for one barista to use all four groups at one time so you be the judge! any way that may be up to moot if you get for real busy. However, a two group is always my choice.

There are three basic types of espresso machines: Semi-Automatic, automatic or Super Automatic. Well My selection is always the automatic because you can program them to cut off a shot at 23 seconds, or anyone you choose but still do it manually. The semi-automatic requires by hand shut off by the operator.

The super automatic engine will grind the beans, tamp, pull the shot, shut it off and even discard the used grounds. Yes, I am serious. I believe you lose a lot of 'art' when you use one of these. You'd be surprised at the number of habitancy that love to see a barista set up and then pull a great shot. These super autos are also big bucks. But if all you want to do is move your cattle call through the line, this is the engine for you!

The boiler capacity should be large sufficient for a big rush, 9-14 liters should be sufficient. You do not want to run out of steam or hot water in a rush and with a smaller boiler that will happen! Trust me on this from experience!

Buy a engine based on the availability to get parts and aid locally. Do not buy based on price alone, or 'coolness' or 'features' of a machine. They are all good these days. Features will not mean anyone if you cannot get local aid on your machine.

As far as water softeners, the selection to get a whole water ideas softener is going to depend on where you are located. In central Texas, the water is Very hard but I chose to not soften my whole water system, just for the espresso machine. If you are not well-known with hard water, this is what causes lime build-up. It's a white, crusty seeing build up that will kill your 00 or 10,000 espresso machine. It clogs up the piping that in time, builds up to the point of the water not being able to get through. Then your engine needs to be fully taken apart and de-limed. Not pretty and not cheap!

You will most likely have to have a unblemished de-liming performed some times over the life of your machine, any way if your water is very hard and you do not soften it for your espresso machine, you will most likely have to have it de-limed at a minimum of once per year. This will get time-consuming and expensive, even if you learn to do it yourself. I had my one group de-limed for about 0 so do the math. Avoid lime scale build-up by getting a water softener.

Espresso Grinders

You will need one for decaf and one for regular espresso. There are some manufacturers and models. I will tell you though to be sure it's automatic and has a doser/coffee hopper. They make a doserless model that grinds right into the portafilter and though this is freshly ground espresso, it does not work well in a rush! The units with a hopper allow the hopper to fill with ground espresso and have a lid to keep out the air. The bigger units have a bigger hopper and vice versa. Also, these have a bean hopper that you can get about 2 lbs of espresso beans in.

Bulk Coffee Grinder

These are the types you see in the food store bulk coffee aisle. Be sure to get the full scale version, not the shorter one. The only inequity I can see is the taller one is easier to get a bag under to grind beans for customers. The shorter one is not! Try to have one polisher for regular and decaf, and other for flavored coffee if you will serve it. Using the same for all three will make the regular and decaf coffee taste like the flavored coffee. This polisher will need allowable maintenance and burr transfer after so many hours as well. Consequent the manufacturer's recommendations on this.

Coffee Maker (drip)

Be sure to buy for your volume. Automatics are best as they are plumbed to a water line. Pour over units will you need to fill manually! The air pot brewers are the better fits because they brew the coffee directly into the air pots. There are particular unit models and duplicate unit models. You will save a lot of time especially in a rush, with a duplicate brew unit.

Pastry Case (refrigerated and non)

There are some separate sizes. Take your floor space into observation but also buy for capacity and optical display. A nice, entertaining unit that holds and displays a nice array of pastries is key for merchandising. Dual zone cases are a good idea because they let you have part cold, and part room temperature (dry case) pastries that do not need to be refrigerated.

Blender

There are some models to choose from but some have features you just won't need. Be sure to get a industrial blender. Buyer units do not have the heavy duty types of motors that industrial units have. That means they will break down a lot faster than a industrial one! I would propose you give Vitamix a look here.

Sandwich Prep Unit

These come in single, duplicate and triple door units. Of course, plan for your overall room but your needs as well. The larger units have more capacity inside the unit, but the bigger plus is the prep top area that has more compartments to put meats, vegetables, etc in. If you are planning on a regular deli and Panini service, I would say the duplicate door unit would be good. You may even get away with the smaller one!

Under Counter Refrigerator

Do yourself a favor and get a duplicate door unit. These are basically like the sandwich prep units but without the top compartments. The inside capacity should be big sufficient to hold a good part of your dairy, as well as opened soy cartons, smoothie mix, bottled water and soda (if you do not have a larger unit or merchandiser for water and soda. Plan accordingly.

Storage Refrigerator

This is for the back of your shop. This will be your industrial refrigerator in the back area to house your back stock of refrigerated items such as milk, as well as your baking ingredients, food items, etc. There are duplicate and particular door units.

Ice Maker

Getting an ice maker that can make an average of 600-1000 lbs per day is good. It will give you sufficient and still be able to make more within 24 hours. In a busy shop, you'd be surprised how much ice you can go through: sodas, fruit smoothies, frappes, icy chai.

Freezer

You will need one of these to keep your ice cream, and other food ingredients that can and need to be frozen.

Oven

Get this based on your baking level. A 1/4 size may be too small and a full size may be too big. The average unit is a 1/2 size and has 3 racks.

Convection oven? Most pastries, pies and other baking can be done well in a convection oven. That is an oven that has a blower wheel that disperses the heat evenly and faster throughout the oven. Therefore your baking time is normally cut in half.

Panini Grill

Cast iron (non-ceramic) with ribbed plates are the better units. With the ribbed, rather than flat plates you will get the 'grill marks' on the bread and that always looks impressive. I propose a duplicate plate unit so you can effectively grill up to four Panini at once if you have a large order.

Three Compartment Sink

This will be critical per most condition departments for wash, rinse and sanitize. If you have a industrial dishwasher, it normally overrides the 3 bay sink. However, most restaurants have both. You don't need a big one, just one big sufficient to get your biggest 'washable' piece of baking or cooking hardware into.

Hand Sink(s)

Check your condition branch requirements because you may need a hand sink every so many feet or based on how many employees you have, or based on your floor plan. These are sinks only big sufficient to wash your hands in and that is it. That is why they are so small.

Furniture

Pick and choose what is in in the middle of comfortable and not. This will help you avoid squatters that love to stay all day. Ordinarily, habitancy in your store is a good thing but not if they are taking up space and just being comfy! This will consist of your tables and chairs, as well as couch, wing hairs, etc. If you are an eclectic coffee house, good finds can be had at Goodwill and other resale shops.

Phone

Just get one that you can hear when it rings! A cordless phone is a great idea.

Radio System

If u can, get extra speakers and have one in at least all four corners for best sound quality.

Credit Card Machine

This is the swiper w/pin pad - If you accept prestige and debit cards, this is essential. normally they are purchased from your prestige card processor. Leasing one of these is normally a rip-off. Try to buy it outright.

Prep Tables

These are stainless steel or aluminum and great to make a kitchen prep area. They clean for real too. They come in discrete heights and widths, with or without a backsplash and normally have a shelf underneath.

So there you have some information to get you started on planning your equipment needs for staring a coffee shop. Be sure you take your floor space into list when figuring the sizes of your equipment. Also be sure you list for your predicted customer volume. Early planning is key to having the right equipment to begin with.

beginning a Coffee Shop - tool Needs

Tuesday 10 April 2012

How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

Staining kitchen cabinets, and how you prepare to stain depends on what you are beginning with.

Are you building your own cabinets? Are your cabinets unfinished in your stable waiting to be installed? Are your cabinets new and already installed, but in need of staining? Are you stripping your cabinets and then re-staining and refinishing them? Or are you going to try your hand at re-facing?

Replacement Kitchen Doors

You will prepare and stain a bit differently for each of the above situations; however, there are some basic steps and supplies that are universal when you are staining kitchen cabinets.

List of Basic Supplies You Will Need:


a good stain (I like a good oil-based stain, like a Sherwin-Williams oil based wiping stain) stirring stick sand paper (150 to 320 grit) saw horses or work bench to stain on drop clothes/cardboard cotton rags floor covering pieces or other tool to apply stain (the right floor covering de facto works well to get into those nooks and crannies) clothes/shoes you don't mind getting dirty (the stain won't come out - it's a good idea to invest in a body apron that you don't mind getting ruined) dust mask/respirator face mask latex or rubber gloves lacquer thinner or acetone (to take off stain off of where you don't want it - like hinges or the floor; if you don't have these, you can use finger nail polish remover, most comprise acetone) well ventilated area to work in area to set wood to dry
Step #1 - take off Doors, Drawers, Hardware and Lay Flat

If you are building your own cabinets, staining them is naturally a step in the building process. You can stain everything, and put cease on it too, before you ever put whatever together.

If your cabinets are pre-built, try to take off as much hardware as potential (handles and hinges). It is much easier to put the hardware back on than to try and clean it later. If you can take the hardware off, number each piece, then also put that same number on the wood where the hardware sits - development sure it is inconspicuous.

You should also take off the doors and drawer fronts before you begin staining kitchen cabinets, if you can, so you can lay them flat. Again, if you take off hinges, etc., do so and number so it won't show on your fulfilled, product.

The advantage of having an item lying flat while you are staining kitchen cabinets is that the stain and cease won't run all over and originate a look you don't want - sloppy. Who wants to put a lot of work, time, and effort into staining kitchen cabinets, just to see the fulfilled, product look sloppy and thoroughly unprofessional? studying how to stain kitchen cabinets means ending up with a stain job that looks gorgeous and professional and says to the world that you know what you're doing. You want your cabinets to look like you paid a fortune, even if you didn't.

Step #2 - Look Your Pieces Over and Sand If Necessary

When first staining kitchen cabinets, look over the pieces you want to stain. Do they need to be sanded first? Most likely they are already sanded well, and you'll just have to sand out small scuff marks which resulted from handling them or installing the cabinets.

Use a fine grit sandpaper, 150, 220, or even higher. Once you begin staining kitchen cabinets, any marks you've missed in sanding will jump out at you. You can all the time sand out marks and scuffs after you've stained your kitchen cabinets, but that takes more time and energy, so try to do a good job of sanding initially.

Step #3 - Setting Up The Area Where You Will Be Staining Kitchen Cabinets - Remember security First!

It is a good idea to stain items on saw horses if you have them, or on any sturdy table or bench that is about waist high. As you learn how to stain kitchen cabinets, you will be glad you used a drop cloth or cardboard on your floor or on any area that you don't want stain on. You can use lacquer thinner or acetone to wipe up stain, but it doesn't all the time work (like you can practically never get stain out of clothes). Also, lacquer thinner or acetone might melt or ruin what the stain is sitting on. If you don't have lacquer thinner or acetone, use finger nail polish remover. It has acetone in it. Don't inhale the fumes of such products, or get them on your hands.

You'll also need to mask off any parts of the cabinets you don't want stained, such as the interiors.

Wear clothes and shoes you don't mind getting dirty, and/or a full body apron.

You should also wear latex or rubber gloves and security glasses when you are staining kitchen cabinets. These precautions are not only for when you are studying how to stain your kitchen cabinets, but are primary even if you come to be an expert. Safely is of the utmost importance.

Alert: Beware Of hazardous Fumes. Wearing a dust mask won't do any good against fumes. Only wear a dust mask if you are in the sanding process. You will whether have to invest in a respirator face mask for your safety, or ensure that you are in an highly well ventilated area, such as your stable with doors wide open, or both. Fumes from the chemicals used while you are staining your kitchen cabinets are highly dangerous, not only to breathe in, but, if concentrated enough, they can cause an explosion. And, don't be fooled by water-based products. They can give off fumes and hazardous odors as well. Each product's danger level is different, but error on the side of caution. Knowing how to stain kitchen cabinets means knowing how to do it safely.

Step #4 - Applying The Stain

Once you know where you are going to be staining kitchen cabinets, and have yourself and your area prepared, open your stain can and stir well. This cannot be overstated enough. When the can sits for any distance of time, the stain will separate and sediment (color) will sit at the bottom of the can. If you do not stir well, the stain you use from the top of the can will be much lighter than the stain you end up using at the bottom of the can (and at the end of your project). These results will not look good. The things you stain first will be much lighter than the last pieces you stain.

To apply the stain, one of the easiest tools to use are old floor covering remnants. Cut them into practically 4 x 3 inch rectangles. Dip one end of the floor covering into your stain, then rub the floor covering onto your wood. It doesn't matter if you go with the grain or against the grain at this point, you just want to make sure that you cover all surfaces. If you are doing intricate work, such as doors with groves or raised panels, be sure to get stain into corners. Over staining at this point is a good idea, because the excess will be wiped off. This is where the drop clothes and wearing an apron come in handy, because it can get pretty messy!!

After you apply stain to your piece, look it over to make sure you didn't miss any spots. Areas that are commonly missed in studying how to stain your kitchen cabinets include: grooves, door edges, drawer edges, or any corners - like where the raised panel corners meet the door frame.

Step #5 - Wiping The Stain Off - A Very foremost Multi-Step In Ensuring Your Piece Looks Great

As you are first studying about staining kitchen cabinets, I suggest you wipe the stain off immediately. Most cans of stain suggest leaving the stain sit for 10 minutes, then wiping off the excess. I've found that this does not normally turn the color, so why wait? Also, if you are staining kitchen cabinets that are already installed, or already built, and you can't lay pieces flat, your stain will run all over if you let it sit for any distance of time. You will want to wipe it up as soon as possible.

If you want a darker piece of wood, buy a darker stain color. The only time that waiting to wipe excess stain off will de facto darken your piece significantly is if you can let it sit for over 30 minutes. This is de facto a false darkening, and the qoute with it is that your stain is normally so dry by then that it's difficult to take off smudges and wipe off the piece properly. The stain ends up sitting on top of the wood, not soaking in. Use your own judgment. If you decide to wait the 10 minutes, do it on every piece to ensure consistency.

Actually wiping the excess stain off in itself is a two step process.

First, have any cotton rags at your disposal. Put a rag in each hand. Never touch your wood with bare or gloved hands alone after it's been stained, as it will leave a smudge mark. Wipe off the bulk of the excess stain. At this point it doesn't matter if you are going with the grain or not, you just want to get the big spots of stain wiped up.

The second step is a finishing type step in staining kitchen cabinets. Take other clean rag. Go back over your piece of wood, this time with the grain. The second rag takes more stain off, preventing smudge marks. The biggest enemy in staining is leaving smudge marks.

Following these two steps and not being afraid to use rags as needed will ensure that you don't leave any smudges. Look your piece over. If you have left any smudges, wipe off gently and blend color in with your cotton rag.

Step #6 - The Final Step In Staining - Set Your Pieces Aside To Dry

Now that you've learned how to stain kitchen cabinets, set your pieces aside to dry (or just let them hang there if they are already installed). You can lay your piece on a flat exterior if only one side is stained. If your piece has multiple sides that are stained, you can lay it flat on something that allows for air circulation to the back, such as saw horses, or if you do adequate staining, buy a professional staining rack. One caveat: where the saw horses or rack touch the stained piece, smudge marks may be left. Before you cease a piece that has dried on such equipment, you may need to touch up that side.

You can also lean your piece against a wall to dry. When your stain is drying, it is best to let air get to as many sides that you have stained as possible. It's also okay to let fans run in the area where you are drying your piece. This helps it to dry faster and doesn't hurt the end result; however, never let fans run on a a piece that you've put cease on.

How long your piece has to dry depends on what type of stain you are using. Read the label and act accordingly.

One Final And foremost Note About security As You Learn How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

Remember to hang your rags to dry, ensuring air movement around them as well. Too many times, bunched together wet staining rags have caused a tragic explosion resulting in fire and even death. Please be careful!!

You Are Now Ready For The Next Step - Finishing

Congratulations!!! You have learned how to stain kitchen cabinets and have completed your staining project!

After your pieces are thoroughly dry, you are ready for the next step - putting a beautiful, clear cease on your beautifully stained kitchen cabinets!

And remember - Have A Happy Kitchen!!!

How To Stain Kitchen Cabinets

Friday 6 April 2012

10 primary Home Maintenance Tips - expert guidance For Homeowners

If I could get down to just the core essentials of home maintenance, I would like you as a homeowner, to effect all of them on a regular basis. Permissible home maintenance, not only saves you money, but helps the environment. The waste produced from your neglected house, is filling up the landfills and this could be prevented, by following as many of these home maintenance tips as possible.

Let's Get Started:

Replacement Kitchen Doors

1. Here's something that's simple and easy to do, but most homeowners seem to avoid. Fix anyone that is damaged or broken.

2. Turn your air conditioner and heating principles on, and make sure that it is working properly. This would require listening for any strange noises and to check the return air filter to see if it's dirty, clean or replace the air filters on a monthly or bimonthly basis, depending on usage.

3. If your home has an attic or crawlspace, grab a flashlight, poke your head inside the access hole and give these areas a quick visual inspection. This should be done every six months or at the minimum, annually.

4. Check your washers and dryers for any corrosion around the water pipes, water leaks or loose dryer vents. Make sure the dryer vents are clear and not blocked with lint. To check this, plainly turned the dryer on, placing your hand over the dryer vent which will be settled on the face of your house to make sure that air is arrival out. If there isn't any air arrival out, you will need to clean out the dryer duct venting pipes.

4. Make sure your lawn sprinklers are working properly. plainly turn the sprinkler principles on and make sure that every sprinkler is watering in the right direction and working properly. If your sprinklers are spraying excess water onto your home, driveway or sidewalk, you should think changing the sprinkler heads or lowering the water pressure on each private sprinkler.

5. Clean and search for your kitchen appliances. This should be done on a monthly basis. Keeping kitchen appliances clean and properly maintained, isn't only good home maintenance, its good hygiene.

6. Make sure all electrical outlets and switches are operating properly on an each year basis. Look for any discoloring around the electrical switches or outlets. This could be the sign of electrical damage and should be repaired as soon as possible, to forestall further damage to your home.

7. search for the face of your home. You will be seeing for any water, termite or mold damage. If your home face is siding, check for water damage. If the face of your home is stucco or brick, check for damaged areas.

8. Your roof should be checked, on an each year basis at the minimum. You will be seeing for any loose, damaged or broken shingles, to forestall roof leaks from damaging your home's interior.

9. Make sure that your doors and windows open and close as a matter of fact and with miniature effort. Sometimes a miniature bit of graphite or grease can prolong the life of your windows and doors.

10. search for your home, with a good home inspection checklist on an each year basis at a minimum.

Inspecting your home, can save you money and the environment, so quit avoiding, something that is so important to your family.

10 primary Home Maintenance Tips - expert guidance For Homeowners

Tuesday 3 April 2012

Melissa & Doug Chef Role Play Costume Set

Melissa & Doug Chef Role Play Costume Set Review


Melissa & Doug Chef Role Play Costume Set Feature

  • Machine-washable chef jacket and hat
  • Complete with a set of measuring spoons, three essential wooden utensils and an oven mitt
  • Contains name tag for personalizing
  • Exceptional Quality and Value

Melissa & Doug Chef Role Play Costume Set Overview

Melissa & Doug Chef Role Play Costume Set perfect for play time, or helping mom and dad in the kitchen! With a machine-washable chef jacket and hat, your little chef will be master of the pretend kitchen! This set comes complete with a set of measuring spoons, two wooden utensils, an oven mitt and a name tag for personalizing. Made for kids ages 3 and up. A cute, well-designed piece from the innovators at Melissa & Doug! Order Now! Melissa & Doug Chef Role Play Costume Set

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*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Apr 03, 2012 15:55:11